Staples and paper clips need to be removed when they are rusty, when pages are photocopied or sewn into a pamphlet binder, and when the fasteners are damaging the materials. Removing staples and paper clips without damaging the paper can be fast and easy when the right tools are used.
REMOVING PAPER CLIPS Paper clips are not always the best item to attach a group of pages to one another. They can rust or bend when left in place for long periods of time. When a paper clip is removed, the blunt end of the clip can catch on the paper and tear it.
The best way to remove a paper clip without damaging the paper is to gently pry it open.
Lay the clipped materials on a work table with the short side of the clip facing up.
Through the paper, press the long side of the clip firmly against the table with one finger.
Gently pull up on the short side with the thumbnail of the other hand. A microspatula or staple remover can also be used to lift up the short leg of the paper clip.
When a paper clip is rusty, gently insert a small piece of Mylar between the clip and paper on both sides of the paper clip then repeat the instructions above.
Staples and paper clips need to be removed when they are rusty, when pages are photocopied or sewn into a pamphlet binder, and when the fasteners are damaging the materials. Removing staples and paper clips without damaging the paper can be fast and easy when the right tools are used. REMOVING STAPLES The traditional double-jawed staple remover can be extremely damaging to paper materials. The staple remover grips the bridge of the staple and forcibly pulls the legs out of the paper. If the paper is thin or weak, it often tears before the staple is open. When the stapled papers are thick or strong, they will resist the force of the staple remover until the legs of the staple are partially open. The great force exerted to force the staple partially open can damage the paper as can removing a partially open staple.
Using a specially beveled tool called a staple extractor or a common oyster knife, staples are easy to remove without damaging the paper
Working from the back side of the staple, slip the beveled edge of the staple extractor under each leg of a closed staple and lift each leg up gently.
Turn the materials over and slip the beveled point of the staple extractor under the bridge of the staple.
Lift the staple straight out of the paper.
Staple extractors can be purchased from most book repair supply houses and less expensive oyster knives are available where kitchen utensils are sold.
Books often receive a lot of abuse before they even leave the bookshelf. They are yanked off the shelf by the top of the spine, forced back on the shelf between tightly packed books, and shelved on their fore edges when they are too tall. Often the bookends used are not strong enough to support the weight of a shelf of books so the books lean at precarious angles. 1. REMOVING BOOKS FROM THE SHELF Books should not be removed from the shelf by pulling on the spine of the book. The book cloth in that area can be weak and tear, especially when the book is old. The best way to remove a book from the shelf is also the most time consuming. First, loosen the bookend and push the books around the desired book toward the back of the shelf. Grasp the desired book and pull it straight off the shelf, then reach to the back of the pushed back books and slide them forward. Finally, tighten the bookend. A second, perhaps more practical, method involves paying attention as a book is removed from the shelf and using one special technique. If the book seems wedged tightly between other books, stop and loosen the bookend. Instead of pulling the book off the shelf by the top of the spine, the cover’s weak point, put an index finger on about 1” of the top of the text block. Pull the book off the shelf with that finger. The most important thing to remember is not to force the book off the shelf. 2. RESHELVING BOOKS When reshelving, don’t force a book back into a tight shelf. Loosen the bookend if necessary and carefully slide the adjacent books out of the way. Shelve the book then tighten the bookend pressure. Never force a book onto the shelf.
Bookends can be dangerous for books. Many bookends are very thin and it is easy to shelve a book right into them. Pay attention as books are being retrieved or shelved.
3. LEANING BOOKS Keep books well supported on the shelf with proper bookends. Poorly supported books tend to lean at precarious angles, putting a great deal of stress on the front and back hinges. 4. SHELVING BOOKS ON THEIR FORE EDGES Oversize books are often shelved on their fore edges so that they will fit on a standard height shelf. This practice is deadly for books. As explained in an earlier post, most modern text blocks are only held into their cases by a small amount of crash and glue. When a book is shelved on its fore edges, gravity is constantly working on the text block, forcing it to separate from the cover. If a book is too tall for the shelf, consider creating a special “oversize” section. 5. OVERSIZE BOOKS Shelving oversize books can be a challenge. The best way to shelve them is lying flat on the shelf. Many people designate the bottom shelf of a range of bookcases as the Oversize Shelf, again shelving flat. Books shelved flat can be tricky to manipulate. If you want the book on the bottom, the tendency is to just pull it out, sometimes bringing all the books out with it. Leave an empty shelf to use as a staging area so books on top of the desired book can be placed on that shelf, then returned once the desired book is in hand. You will also appreciate the work space when re-shelving oversize books.
Often a damaged book does not easily fit into a single repair category. It might be bound in an unfamiliar style or be material that has never been bound. When designing a repair, consider all aspects of the item to be repaired, the individual characteristics of repair materials, and the strengths and weaknesses of a particular structure. Start by looking at how a book is constructed, why it needs repair and any previous repairs. Keep these questions in mind:
How does the book function?
Does it have signatures?
Is it adhesive bound? Side stapled?
Why did the book structure fail?
Is the original binding structure flawed?
Has a previous repair caused damage?
If the book has previous repairs, were inappropriate repair materials used?
Were the repair materials too weak or too strong for the original material?
If the book was damaged through use, can the damage be successfully repaired?
Will it happen again even if it is repaired?
If the original binding style was of poor construction or the paper is brittle, can the volume be successfully repaired by you? For instance, an adhesive bound book with many pages detached from the spine usually cannot be repaired without professional help.
Also consider these steps before planning your repair work:
Think about how a book functions now and how it will function when the repair is complete.
Ask librarians or book repair technicians how they would handle the repair but keep in mind that book repair is a field that has not been taught to many librarians. Beware of any answers that involve materials that are damaging to books.
Read books about book repair and conservation.
Reread instructions after practicing a specific repair several times; they will probably make more sense.
The Lap-link Stitch 1) Sewing An Anchor Thread Into An Attached Signature The lap-link stitch must have an even number of sewing stations. The kettle stitches at either end of the text block stand alone. All other sewing stations are in pairs. The sewing thread should be as long as needed providing it is a comfortable length to sew with. See the information on adding sewing thread in an earlier post.
Begin sewing one signature before the first loose/unattached signature.
The first station number 1 is called the kettle station. Kettle stations are the first and last sewing stations on each signature. The term may be a corruption of a German word for “catch-up stitch” or “Kettle stitch” (the stitch that forms a little chain).
To follow these instructions, station 1 can be either kettle stitch station at the end of the signature.
Insert the needle into station number 1 and pull the thread to the inside of the signature.
Leave a 2” tail of thread on the outside of the signature.
NOTE: It can be difficult to locate the sewing hole on the back of the signature fold. If this is a problem, place an unthreaded needle or awl into the sewing station on the inside of the fold so that it protrudes out the back of the spine. Slowly pull the needle or awl out of the hole and insert the sewing needle as first needle or awl leaves the sewing hole.
On the inside of the signature, insert the needle in station number 2 and pull the thread to the outside of the signature. Remember to pull the thread in the direction of sewing (toward station number 3).
IMPORTANT: Always pull and tighten the thread in the direction of the sewing. Thread tightened in the opposite direction can tear through the paper between the sewing stations. Linen thread is very strong, but it will still break if pulled hard enough. Also, pulling too tight can tear through the paper. When tightening sewing thread, pull on the thread firmly until it just slips through your fingers.
Sewing around the tape or cord, insert the needle into the outside of station number 3 and pull the thread tight to the inside of the signature. Pull the thread toward sewing station 4.
On the inside of the signature, insert the needle in station number 4 and pull the thread to the outside of the signature.
Continue sewing along the spine until the needle is on the outside of the signature at sewing station 6 , a kettle stitch station
Pull the thread to the outside of the signature. Remember to pull in the direction of sewing so the paper doesn’t tear.
The tapes or cords are now sewn onto the first signature.
2) Sewing The First Unattached Signature With A Lap-Link Stitch The next signature to be sewn is the first loose/unattached signature. It can be helpful to clip the first and second signatures together so the centers of both can be easily located in the sewing process.
On the outside of the second signature, insert the needle into station number 6 (a kettle stitch station). Pull the thread to the inside of the signature. The two signatures are now joined together at the kettle stitch stations.
Proceed along the spine sewing around the tapes or cords until the needle is outside of the signature at sewing station 1, a kettle station.
Grasp both threads in one hand. Gently pull away from the edge of the signature fold to fully tighten the sewing.
When the first and second signature threads are tight, tie the two ends of thread in a square knot.
3) Sewing The Second Unattached Signature OR Sewing An Anchor Thread Into An Attached Signature The third sewn signature will either attach another loose/unattached signature or anchor the first loose/unattached signature to the text block.
Place the signature in place in the text block. If necessary, clip the second and third signatures together.
On the outside of the third signature, insert the needle into station number 1 (a kettle stitch station). Pull the thread tight to the inside of the signature.
Proceed along the spine sewing around the tapes or cords until the needle is outside of the signature at sewing station 6, a kettle station.
Pull the thread tight, remembering to pull in the direction of sewing so the paper doesn’t tear.
Kettle Stitch The two signatures must be linked together at sewing station 6. Since there is no second thread to tie a square knot, a special knot is used to attach the two signatures to one another. It is called a kettle stitch because it is used to link signatures together at the kettle stitch station.
At station 6, pass the needle behind the stitch that connects the first two signatures together.
Pull the thread until a small loop is formed, about l/2” in diameter.
Pass the needle through the loop and pull tight.
If this is the last signature to be sewn, repeat the kettle stitch so there is a total of two kettle stitches, and clip the thread leaving a 1” tail.
Return to sewing station 1 on the first signature, and clip that thread to a 1” tail.
If there is another signature to attach, put the needle into station 6 of that signature. Repeat the sewing pattern using the instructions above.
NOTE: The sewing will be moving in the opposite direction and the sewing station numbers will be backwards to the instructions. When the last signature is attached, tie two kettle stitches, and clip the thread leaving a 1” tail. Return to sewing station 1 on the first signature, and clip that thread to a 1” tail.
SEWING THE TEXT BLOCK Linen thread and sewing needles are discussed in earlier posts. Depending on the height and weight of the text block, a volume may have more or less sewing stations than the example used in these instructions. The instructions can be repeated as often as necessary, depending on the number of sewing stations between the kettle stitches. When sewing the link stitch, any number of sewing stations can be used. For the lap-link stitch, there must be an even number of sewing stations.
The Link Stitch 1) Sewing An Anchor Thread Into An Attached Signature
Begin sewing one signature before the first loose/unattached signature.
Start on the outside of the sound signature at station 1 which is called the kettle station. Kettle stations are the first and last sewing stations on each signature. The term “kettle” may be a corruption of a German word for “catch-up stitch” or “Kettel stitch” (the stitch that forms a little chain).
The sewing thread should be as long as needed providing it is a comfortable length to sew with. Adding new thread is discussed in an earlier post.
To follow these instructions, station 1 can be the kettle stitch station at either end of the signature.
Insert the needle into station number 1 and pull the thread to the inside of the signature.
Leave a 2” tail of thread on the outside of the signature.
IMPORTANT: Always pull and tighten the thread in the direction of the sewing. Thread tightened in the opposite direction, against itself, can tear through the paper between the sewing stations.
On the inside of the signature, insert the needle in station number 2, and pull the thread to the outside of the signature.
On the outside of the signature, insert the needle back into station number 2 and pull the thread to the inside of the signature, leaving a loop of thread on the outside of the sewing station 2. The loop should be about l/2”.
The two threads should not cross over one another and the needle should not pierce the thread where it reenters a sewing station.
NOTE: It can be difficult to locate the sewing hole on the back of the signature fold. If this is a problem, place an unthreaded needle or awl in the sewing station on the inside of the fold so that it protrudes onto the back of the spine. Slowly pull the needle or awl out of the hole and insert the sewing needle as first needle or awl leaves the sewing hole.
On the inside of the signature, insert the needle in station number 3 and pull the thread to the outside of the signature. Do not pull so tight that the loop is pulled out of sewing station 2.
Continue sewing along the spine, forming loops at sewing station 3,4 and 5. Remember to pull the thread in the direction of the sewing. Be careful not to pierce the sewing thread already in the sewing station.
At sewing station 5, the thread will be on the outside of the signature. The first signature is now sewn. This sewing provides the anchor for the next signature to be attached to it.
2) Sewing The First Unattached Signature With A Link Stitch
The next signature to be sewn is the first loose/unattached signature.
It can be helpful to clip the first and second repaired signatures together so the centers of both can be easily located in the sewing process.
On the outside of the second signature, insert the needle into station number 5 (a kettle stitch station) and pull the thread to the inside of the signature. Do not pull the thread so tight that any of the loops in the first signature are lost.
The two signatures are now joined together at the kettle stitch stations.
Working on the inside of the second signature, insert the needle in sewing station 4. Take the thread through the loop at sewing station 4 of the first signature. Bring the needle around the loop and back up into sewing station 4 on the second signature. There should now be two intertwined loops.
Continue sewing in this manner to station 3, 2 and 1.
Loop each thread through the loop on the first signature.
3) Tighten The Sewing Threads On The First Two Signatures
The first and second signatures are now sewn together but the sewing thread is still loose. If the needle has not pierced the sewing threads when it was re-inserted into each sewing station, it is simple to tighten the thread.
NOTE: Linen thread is very strong, but it will still break if pulled hard enough. Pulling too tight can also tear through the paper. When tightening sewing thread, pull on the thread firmly until it just slips through your fingers.
Position the book so the inside of the first sewn signature is facing out.
Hold the tail end of the sewing thread (sewing station 1) in one hand, and grasp the thread between sewing station 2 & 3.
Pull the sewing thread toward sewing station 3.
Keep hold of the tail end of the sewing thread in one hand, and use this same technique to tighten the sewing thread one sewing station at a time, working the thread toward sewing station 5.
When all the excess thread is at sewing station 5, reposition the text block so the fold of the signatures are facing out.
Still holding the tail end of the sewing thread, use the sewing needle to pull the sewing thread to the outside of the signature at sewing station 5.
Using the same technique, tighten the sewing thread in the second signature one sewing station at a time. Work the excess thread from sewing station 5 toward sewing station 1.
When the excess thread is at sewing station 1, turn the text block so the folds of the signatures are facing out.
Carefully pull the thread through sewing station 1 toward the outside of the signature.
Grasp both threads in one hand and pull away from the edge of the signature fold to fully tighten.
When the first and second signature threads are tight, tie the two ends of thread in a square knot (separate post).
4) Sewing The Second Unattached Signature OR Sewing An Anchor Thread Into An Attached Signature The third sewn signature will either attach another loose/unattached signature or anchor the first loose/unattached signature to the text block.
Pre-punch the sewing stations if needed and place the signature in place in the text block. It can be helpful to clip the second and third signatures together so the centers of both can be easily located in the sewing process.
It is possible to continue sewing the link stitch with a straight needle, but it will be easier with a curved needle. The nstructions for continuing the link stitch will be described for a curved and straight needle.
Curved needles can often be purchased in a sewing or craft store, but some people find these manufactured needles too curved. Many book binders like a more specific type of curve and bend needles to suit a particular task. Experiment with different kinds of sewing needles and decide which works best for you.
On the outside of the third signature, insert the needle into station number 1 (a kettle stitch station). Pull the thread tight to the inside of the signature.
Working on the inside of the signature, insert the needle in station 2.
Pull the thread tight to the outside of the signature. Remember to pull the thread in the direction of the sewing (toward station number 3).
Using the technique for a curved or straight needle, pass the needle behind the loop at sewing station 2.
Curved Needle: – Link the third signature to the second signature by inserting a curved needle behind the loops at station 2. – Pull the thread tight and reinsert the needle into sewing station 2. Be careful not to pierce the sewing thread already in sewing station 2. – Continue onto sewing station 5. Straight Needle: – Insert the needle in between the first and second signatures. The needle should be between sewing station 1 (kettle station) & 2.
– Pull the thread to the inside of the text block. – Working from the inside of the text block, insert the needle outward between the first and second signatures. The needle should be between sewing station 2 & 3. – Pull the needle out of the signatures and tighten the thread. – Reinsert the needle into sewing station 2. Be careful not to pierce the sewing thread already in sewing station 2. – Tighten the thread by pulling in the direction of the sewing (toward sewing station 3) and continue to station 3 on the inside of the signature. – Repeat this procedure for sewing station 3 and 4 then proceed to sewing station 5. The two signatures must be linked together at sewing station 5.
– Since there is no second thread to tie into a square knot, a special knot is used to hold the two signatures to one another. It is called a kettle stitch because it is used to link signatures together at the kettle stitch station
Kettle Stitch
At station 5, pass the needle behind the stitch that connects the first two signatures together. Pull the thread until a small loop is formed, about l/2” in diameter.
Pass the needle through the loop, and pull tight.
If this is the last signature to be sewn, repeat the Kettle Stitch so there is a total of two.
Clip the thread leaving a 1” tail.
Return to sewing station 1 on the first signature, clip that thread to a 1” tail.
If there is another signature to attach, put the needle into station 5 of that signature and repeat the sewing pattern using the instructions for Section 4 above.
NOTE: Keep in mind that the sewing will be moving in the opposite direction and the sewing station numbers will be backwards to the instructions. When the last signature is attached, tie two kettle stitches and clip the thread, leaving a 1” tail. Return to sewing station 1 on the first signature, and clip that thread to a 1” tail.
PREPARING THE TEXT BLOCK All the necessary paper repairs should be done before starting the sewing procedure.
Mark the centers of each signature to be sewn so they are easier to locate during the sewing process. Find and mark the centers of the signature before the first separated signature and after the last separated signature as well as all the separated signatures. A punching jig (construction details in a separate post) can be used to achieve consistently placed sewing holes.
Use an awl or needle to punch new sewing holes or to repunch existing holes that may be filled with glue. Use the existing sewing holes whenever possible.
If the spine of the text block is covered with spine lining paper or the original crash and glue, it can be difficult to pierce through the spine. Apply gentle pressure and rotate the awl or needle-in-a-stick to punch through the paper. A needle can break if too much pressure is used.
CLEANING AND RELINING THE TEXT BLOCK SPINE Depending on the condition of the text block spine, the spine lining paper and the crash can be removed before sewing. If only one or two signatures are separated or in need of repair, it might be easier to punch sewing holes through the spine lining materials and sew directly through them.
If several signatures are affected or if the spine lining materials are in poor condition, remove them and the original sewing threads, then resew the volume, and reline the spine. Relining the spine is discussed in a separate post.
Any complete book repair should include cleaning the text block, resewing the text block, and relining it. Some books may not warrant this full treatment. In that case it is possible to resew through the old spine linings.
GAINING ACCESS TO THE TEXT BLOCK SPINE The spine of the text block must be accessible to resew loose or separated signatures. If the endpapers are separated at one hinge, cut through it with scissors or a knife to gain access to the spine. Whenever possible, separate the back hinge so the repair will be less noticeable. If the hinges are sound, it is possible to cut through one of the pastedowns to gain access to the text block spine. Again, makes cuts at the back cover if possible so the repaired damage will be less noticeable.
Support the cover with books or boards.
Find the edge of the crash. It is usually either visible through the endpaper or can be felt as a ridge.
Lay a ruler just past the far edge of crash (farthest from the hinge) and cut through the endpaper.
Cut along the top and bottom of the endpaper from the cut line to the hinge (the distance will vary with the thickness of the crash).
Use a microspatula, folder or dull knife to carefully lift up the crash/endpaper and free the cover board.
Often the sewing thread in one or two signatures will break while the rest of the text block sewing is sound. In this case, tipping or hinging the separated signature(s) into the book is not the best option because those methods do not give enough support to so many pages. Also, hinging-in pages adds several layers of thickness to the spine of the text block. The extra thickness can put stress on the case hinges and interfere with the pages opening easily.
Resewing an entire text block takes time and practice and should only be attempted when the book is to have lasting importance. Before resewing a text block, study the sewing structure. Open the text block to the center of a signature and look at the sewing threads. Books sewn by machine usually have double threads and no sewing supports (tapes or cords). This kind of sewing is called unsupported sewing because only the sewing thread and glue hold the signatures together. Most manufactured books are constructed with unsupported machine sewing.
Text blocks that are sewn by hand usually have single sewing threads sewn around tapes or cords for support. Some manufactured books are also sewn on tapes or cords. This type of sewing is called supported sewing. Supported sewing is always stronger than unsupported sewing because the tape or cord helps support the signatures. The link stitch is used to repair a text block sewn using unsupported sewing. In unsupported sewing, the signatures are linked to one another only by the sewing threads.
The lap-link stitch is used to repair a text block that is sewn on tapes or cords. This is called supported sewing because the tapes or cords provide the supporting connection between the signatures so there is no need to link the signatures to one another.
Work through the instructions at least once before attempting them in the book you wish to repair. Fold pieces of paper to create signatures, punch sewing holes and number them so the directions are easy to follow. Save the practice signatures to serve as a model for future reference.