Over the next few posts I will talk about methods of binding pamphlets, booklets or single pages of information into a solid covering. Pamphlets or booklets are unbound material l/2” or thinner in spine width. These materials can be individual sheets or single or multiple signatures and can be sewn or stapled into a pamphlet binder.
The three or five hole pamphlet stitch is used to sew individual sheets or signatures into a pamphlet binder. Either sewing stitch works well on most center sewn or stapled materials and on side-sewn or stapled items up to 3″ thick. Choose the three hole stitch for fairly thin materials less than 7” tall. A taller, heavier booklet should be sewn with the five-hole stitch. When in doubt, it’s better to use the five-hole pamphlet stitch.
Regardless of which stitch is chosen or the size of the pamphlet, the first and last sewing stations (1 & 3 or 1 & 5) should be no more than 3/4” from the top or bottom edge of the booklet and the center sewing station (2 or 3) should be in the center of the booklet.This placement of sewing stations gives the most support to the entire booklet.
Use the technique in a previous post for removing staples and use the original staple holes for sewing if possible so as not to punch additional holes in the fold of the booklet.
Spiral bindings can be reinforced for longer life. This technique was developed at the University of Michigan Library and uses a special product called Tyvek. Tyvek is strong, lightweight polyester “paper” that will not tear. Tyvek and PVA have a similar chemical makeup and bond very tightly. Tyvek can be purchased through library, art supply and camping/bushwalking sources. When using recycled Tyvek, glue the print side down.
Photocopy any information on the inside of the front or back covers.
Trim the photocopies and hinge (click here for instructions) onto the text block.
Cut two pieces of board: Height = exact height of the cover, Width = distance from the spirals to the fore edge minus l/4”
Use a pair of utility scissors to slip three or more rings from the spiral binding: top, middle and bottom. The number depends on the size and weight of the book.
Cut three strips of Tyvek a little narrower than the space left by the cut spirals, apply PVA, and thread the strips into the book.
Apply PVA to both pieces of board, and attach to the inside of the front and back covers.
Line up the board with the top, bottom and fore edge of each cover.
A pastedown endpaper can be added to the board if desired.
Cut the endpaper the same dimension as the board and glue to the board.
Reinforcing Paperback Books With Commercial Clear Plastic Covers
Many library supply companies sell self-adhesive clear plastic cover protectors to protect and reinforce paperback books. These plastic cover protectors may be a good solution for maintaining a paperback collection. Remember that these covers are basically large pieces of plastic tape and should not be used on materials that cannot be replaced. The book cover cannot be bound into the volume at a bindery once a plastic protector has been applied.
Look for cover protectors that are very flexible. This is very important as the added stiffness of the cover can put a great deal of stress on the glue between the spine and the text block. Too much stress at the hinge can cause the cover to separate from the text block. Many of these manufactured covers come with special tape used to reinforce the attachment of the cover to the text block. Again, any material used to reinforce the cover hinge needs to be very flexible. If this tape is not flexible, the first page of the book will not turn freely. If that page doesn’t turn freely, the page will crease along the edge of the tape and fall out.
How to Reinforce Paperback Books With Board and Japanese Tissue
Open the book cover to its natural fold line and crease with a folder.
Photocopy any information on the inside of the front or back covers.
Trim the photocopies and tip (click here for instructions) onto the text block.
Reinforce the cover hinge fold with a 1” strip of Japanese tissue. l/4” of the tissue should extend onto the text with 3/4” on the cover.
Dry with the covers open under weight.
Cut two pieces of thin board. The boards should be the exact height of the cover and the width should be the width of the cover minus l/4”.
Apply PVA to one piece of board and lay it onto the text block GLUE SIDE UP.
Line up the board with the top, bottom and fore edge and carefully close the cover. The board will be l/4” less wide than the text block so it will not sit flush with the cover hinge.
Use a folder or a book press to press the board onto the cover.
Many of us have an abundance of paperback books. Unfortunately, many paperback books are not well constructed so they are often in need of repair. It can be a poor use of your time, as well as extremely frustrating, to attempt to repair a paperback book that was not constructed to be repaired.
Paperback books that are constructed in single pages glued together can pose quite a problem for repair. Unlike the techniques used by library binders (double-fan binding with flexible glue), mass produced paperback books are not constructed for multiple use. They are not usually fan bound, and the glues that are used in their construction tend to be with fast drying, brittle glue.
Higher quality paperback books are constructed with sewn signatures that can be repaired just as hard cover books with signatures. There are several options for those of us with large collections of paperback books.
Small, thin paperback books can be housed in pamphlet binders.
If a paperback book is considered part of a permanent collection, such as a reference book, reinforce it before shelving it or send it to a library binder before use.
If a paperback book is projected to have a great deal of immediate use, but is not seen as part of a long-term permanent collection, give it minimal reinforcement and repair as possible. When the book has been repaired once or twice, either discard it or buy a replacement copy and reinforce or bind it for use.
If a PB book is projected to have minimal use, give it minimal reinforcement and repair if possible.
Do not attempt to continually repair a book that is not constructed so that it can be repaired.
Staples and paper clips need to be removed when they are rusty, when pages are photocopied or sewn into a pamphlet binder, and when the fasteners are damaging the materials. Removing staples and paper clips without damaging the paper can be fast and easy when the right tools are used.
REMOVING PAPER CLIPS Paper clips are not always the best item to attach a group of pages to one another. They can rust or bend when left in place for long periods of time. When a paper clip is removed, the blunt end of the clip can catch on the paper and tear it.
The best way to remove a paper clip without damaging the paper is to gently pry it open.
Lay the clipped materials on a work table with the short side of the clip facing up.
Through the paper, press the long side of the clip firmly against the table with one finger.
Gently pull up on the short side with the thumbnail of the other hand. A microspatula or staple remover can also be used to lift up the short leg of the paper clip.
When a paper clip is rusty, gently insert a small piece of Mylar between the clip and paper on both sides of the paper clip then repeat the instructions above.
Staples and paper clips need to be removed when they are rusty, when pages are photocopied or sewn into a pamphlet binder, and when the fasteners are damaging the materials. Removing staples and paper clips without damaging the paper can be fast and easy when the right tools are used. REMOVING STAPLES The traditional double-jawed staple remover can be extremely damaging to paper materials. The staple remover grips the bridge of the staple and forcibly pulls the legs out of the paper. If the paper is thin or weak, it often tears before the staple is open. When the stapled papers are thick or strong, they will resist the force of the staple remover until the legs of the staple are partially open. The great force exerted to force the staple partially open can damage the paper as can removing a partially open staple.
Using a specially beveled tool called a staple extractor or a common oyster knife, staples are easy to remove without damaging the paper
Working from the back side of the staple, slip the beveled edge of the staple extractor under each leg of a closed staple and lift each leg up gently.
Turn the materials over and slip the beveled point of the staple extractor under the bridge of the staple.
Lift the staple straight out of the paper.
Staple extractors can be purchased from most book repair supply houses and less expensive oyster knives are available where kitchen utensils are sold.
Books often receive a lot of abuse before they even leave the bookshelf. They are yanked off the shelf by the top of the spine, forced back on the shelf between tightly packed books, and shelved on their fore edges when they are too tall. Often the bookends used are not strong enough to support the weight of a shelf of books so the books lean at precarious angles. 1. REMOVING BOOKS FROM THE SHELF Books should not be removed from the shelf by pulling on the spine of the book. The book cloth in that area can be weak and tear, especially when the book is old. The best way to remove a book from the shelf is also the most time consuming. First, loosen the bookend and push the books around the desired book toward the back of the shelf. Grasp the desired book and pull it straight off the shelf, then reach to the back of the pushed back books and slide them forward. Finally, tighten the bookend. A second, perhaps more practical, method involves paying attention as a book is removed from the shelf and using one special technique. If the book seems wedged tightly between other books, stop and loosen the bookend. Instead of pulling the book off the shelf by the top of the spine, the cover’s weak point, put an index finger on about 1” of the top of the text block. Pull the book off the shelf with that finger. The most important thing to remember is not to force the book off the shelf. 2. RESHELVING BOOKS When reshelving, don’t force a book back into a tight shelf. Loosen the bookend if necessary and carefully slide the adjacent books out of the way. Shelve the book then tighten the bookend pressure. Never force a book onto the shelf.
Bookends can be dangerous for books. Many bookends are very thin and it is easy to shelve a book right into them. Pay attention as books are being retrieved or shelved.
3. LEANING BOOKS Keep books well supported on the shelf with proper bookends. Poorly supported books tend to lean at precarious angles, putting a great deal of stress on the front and back hinges. 4. SHELVING BOOKS ON THEIR FORE EDGES Oversize books are often shelved on their fore edges so that they will fit on a standard height shelf. This practice is deadly for books. As explained in an earlier post, most modern text blocks are only held into their cases by a small amount of crash and glue. When a book is shelved on its fore edges, gravity is constantly working on the text block, forcing it to separate from the cover. If a book is too tall for the shelf, consider creating a special “oversize” section. 5. OVERSIZE BOOKS Shelving oversize books can be a challenge. The best way to shelve them is lying flat on the shelf. Many people designate the bottom shelf of a range of bookcases as the Oversize Shelf, again shelving flat. Books shelved flat can be tricky to manipulate. If you want the book on the bottom, the tendency is to just pull it out, sometimes bringing all the books out with it. Leave an empty shelf to use as a staging area so books on top of the desired book can be placed on that shelf, then returned once the desired book is in hand. You will also appreciate the work space when re-shelving oversize books.
Often a damaged book does not easily fit into a single repair category. It might be bound in an unfamiliar style or be material that has never been bound. When designing a repair, consider all aspects of the item to be repaired, the individual characteristics of repair materials, and the strengths and weaknesses of a particular structure. Start by looking at how a book is constructed, why it needs repair and any previous repairs. Keep these questions in mind:
How does the book function?
Does it have signatures?
Is it adhesive bound? Side stapled?
Why did the book structure fail?
Is the original binding structure flawed?
Has a previous repair caused damage?
If the book has previous repairs, were inappropriate repair materials used?
Were the repair materials too weak or too strong for the original material?
If the book was damaged through use, can the damage be successfully repaired?
Will it happen again even if it is repaired?
If the original binding style was of poor construction or the paper is brittle, can the volume be successfully repaired by you? For instance, an adhesive bound book with many pages detached from the spine usually cannot be repaired without professional help.
Also consider these steps before planning your repair work:
Think about how a book functions now and how it will function when the repair is complete.
Ask librarians or book repair technicians how they would handle the repair but keep in mind that book repair is a field that has not been taught to many librarians. Beware of any answers that involve materials that are damaging to books.
Read books about book repair and conservation.
Reread instructions after practicing a specific repair several times; they will probably make more sense.
The Lap-link Stitch 1) Sewing An Anchor Thread Into An Attached Signature The lap-link stitch must have an even number of sewing stations. The kettle stitches at either end of the text block stand alone. All other sewing stations are in pairs. The sewing thread should be as long as needed providing it is a comfortable length to sew with. See the information on adding sewing thread in an earlier post.
Begin sewing one signature before the first loose/unattached signature.
The first station number 1 is called the kettle station. Kettle stations are the first and last sewing stations on each signature. The term may be a corruption of a German word for “catch-up stitch” or “Kettle stitch” (the stitch that forms a little chain).
To follow these instructions, station 1 can be either kettle stitch station at the end of the signature.
Insert the needle into station number 1 and pull the thread to the inside of the signature.
Leave a 2” tail of thread on the outside of the signature.
NOTE: It can be difficult to locate the sewing hole on the back of the signature fold. If this is a problem, place an unthreaded needle or awl into the sewing station on the inside of the fold so that it protrudes out the back of the spine. Slowly pull the needle or awl out of the hole and insert the sewing needle as first needle or awl leaves the sewing hole.
On the inside of the signature, insert the needle in station number 2 and pull the thread to the outside of the signature. Remember to pull the thread in the direction of sewing (toward station number 3).
IMPORTANT: Always pull and tighten the thread in the direction of the sewing. Thread tightened in the opposite direction can tear through the paper between the sewing stations. Linen thread is very strong, but it will still break if pulled hard enough. Also, pulling too tight can tear through the paper. When tightening sewing thread, pull on the thread firmly until it just slips through your fingers.
Sewing around the tape or cord, insert the needle into the outside of station number 3 and pull the thread tight to the inside of the signature. Pull the thread toward sewing station 4.
On the inside of the signature, insert the needle in station number 4 and pull the thread to the outside of the signature.
Continue sewing along the spine until the needle is on the outside of the signature at sewing station 6 , a kettle stitch station
Pull the thread to the outside of the signature. Remember to pull in the direction of sewing so the paper doesn’t tear.
The tapes or cords are now sewn onto the first signature.
2) Sewing The First Unattached Signature With A Lap-Link Stitch The next signature to be sewn is the first loose/unattached signature. It can be helpful to clip the first and second signatures together so the centers of both can be easily located in the sewing process.
On the outside of the second signature, insert the needle into station number 6 (a kettle stitch station). Pull the thread to the inside of the signature. The two signatures are now joined together at the kettle stitch stations.
Proceed along the spine sewing around the tapes or cords until the needle is outside of the signature at sewing station 1, a kettle station.
Grasp both threads in one hand. Gently pull away from the edge of the signature fold to fully tighten the sewing.
When the first and second signature threads are tight, tie the two ends of thread in a square knot.
3) Sewing The Second Unattached Signature OR Sewing An Anchor Thread Into An Attached Signature The third sewn signature will either attach another loose/unattached signature or anchor the first loose/unattached signature to the text block.
Place the signature in place in the text block. If necessary, clip the second and third signatures together.
On the outside of the third signature, insert the needle into station number 1 (a kettle stitch station). Pull the thread tight to the inside of the signature.
Proceed along the spine sewing around the tapes or cords until the needle is outside of the signature at sewing station 6, a kettle station.
Pull the thread tight, remembering to pull in the direction of sewing so the paper doesn’t tear.
Kettle Stitch The two signatures must be linked together at sewing station 6. Since there is no second thread to tie a square knot, a special knot is used to attach the two signatures to one another. It is called a kettle stitch because it is used to link signatures together at the kettle stitch station.
At station 6, pass the needle behind the stitch that connects the first two signatures together.
Pull the thread until a small loop is formed, about l/2” in diameter.
Pass the needle through the loop and pull tight.
If this is the last signature to be sewn, repeat the kettle stitch so there is a total of two kettle stitches, and clip the thread leaving a 1” tail.
Return to sewing station 1 on the first signature, and clip that thread to a 1” tail.
If there is another signature to attach, put the needle into station 6 of that signature. Repeat the sewing pattern using the instructions above.
NOTE: The sewing will be moving in the opposite direction and the sewing station numbers will be backwards to the instructions. When the last signature is attached, tie two kettle stitches, and clip the thread leaving a 1” tail. Return to sewing station 1 on the first signature, and clip that thread to a 1” tail.
