Book Repair for Hardcover Books – Page 2 – How To Repair Your Favourite Books

Constructing a Double Spread Endpaper

When the front and back endpapers show the same information or picture, the fly leaf of each endpaper can be used to construct one complete endpaper. The constructed endpaper is usually attached to the front of the text block.

Separate the fly leaf from the pastedown. If the hinge area is weak, the fly leaf can be separated by gently pulling it away from the pastedown; if the paper in the hinge is in good condition, cut it away.
Check the alignment of the two fly leaves. If there is an overlap, trim back the two parts until they meet correctly, If there is a gap in the two pages, it can be filled with Japanese repair tissue when they are hinged together.
Hinge the two halves together, then use link stitch to attach the endpaper to the text block. Sew the endpaper to at least three adjacent signatures

Endpaper Repairs

The first pages at the front and back of the text block are called the endpapers. The main function of the endpapers is to protect the text block from dirt and damage, but endpapers can also be decorative or informative.

Most endsheets consist of two to four leaves – the pastedown which is glued to the cover board and the leaves that turn freely called the fly leaves. Most commercially bound volumes use two page endpapers that are sewn or glued to the text block.
The way to handle endpapers depends on the condition of the endpapers and on the information they contain.
If the fly leaf and pastedown are in good condition they can be reused. In some instances, such as recasing, the two parts of the endpapers may be split. Slide the new crash under the pastedown and cover any gap between the fly leaf and the pastedown with Japanese repair tissue.
If the endpapers are torn and need repair, follow the instructions for
repairing tears in an earlier post.
If the endpapers are replaced, clean as much of the old pastedown off the book board as possible. The inside of the cover boards can be lightly sanded to remove or smooth down any pastedown paper left on them.

In the next few posts, I will cover some methods of more complex repairs for endpapers.

Re-Attaching Detached Signatures – Method 2

Repairing Fully or Partially Detached Signatures

Method 2:
If the spine of the text block is accessible, such as when the text block is being recased, the repaired signature can be sewn back into the text block.

Punch sewing holes in the detached signature, as well as one signature before it in the text block and one signature after it.

Use link stitch (separate post) to sew through the center of these three signatures and through the spine lining papers.

If the resewn signature does not sit in the text block evenly, trim it to size.

Re-attaching Detached Signatures – Method 1

REATTACHING PARTIALLY OR FULLY DETACHED SIGNATURES

Method 1:

Find the center of the signature and cut the sewing threads to release the pages.
If any of the leaves have separated, hinge them together with Japanese tissue to restore the complete signature.
Make sure the pages are in the correct order.
Tear a piece of Japanese repair tissue the height of the signature and about 3/4 – 1” wide.
Fold the Japanese repair tissue strip around the outside of the signature (there is no paste involved here).
Using thin thread, sew the signature to the repair tissue with a 3 or 5 hole pamphlet stitch.
Put a piece of waste paper on top of a piece of wax paper then put both between one side of the Japanese repair tissue and the separated text page.
Apply paste to one side of the folded repair tissue.
Position the repaired signature with its pasted repair strip into the text.
Close the book and let dry.
When the first half of the repair strip is dry, repeat on the second half of the repair strip.

The reattached signature may not sit into the text block exactly as it originally did. If the signature protrudes past the edges of the text block, trim the reattached signature to the correct size.

Re-attaching Single Leaves

Detached single leaves can be reattached to the text block by hinging or tipping depending on the structure of the text block.

Since each leaf of a sewn text block is one half of a complete folio, always make sure the other half of the folio is well attached to the text block. If the second leaf is loose, both leaves must be repaired.
Two detached halves of a folio can be re-attached by hinging or tipping, or as a partially detached signature (separate post).

Repairing Folios

Repairing Additional Folios Or The Last Folio of a Signature
If additional folios need to be repaired, place the folio to be repaired in the correct position around the center folio page(s). Make sure all the pages are in the correct order.

If a folio has separated into two halves, place both leaves in the correct position, and clip them together at the fore edge.

Tear a strip of Japanese repair tissue the height of the folio and as wide as necessary to cover any paper damage in the hinge area.
Apply paste to the Japanese tissue strip.
Place the tissue strip on the spine edge of the damaged folio so that one half of the pasted tissue extends past the folio fold.
Gently wrap the Japanese tissue around on the back side of the folio. Remember, only the center folio of a signature is repaired on the inside; the others are repaired on the outside of folio.
Lay the repaired signature pages between wax paper and let dry.

Repeat the instructions until all the signature folios are repaired.

Repairing the Center Folio of a Signature

The damaged fold of a center folio should be repaired on the inside. All the other folios are repaired on the outside.
Using the techniques in earlier posts tear a piece of Japanese tissue and apply paste to the Japanese tissue. The width of the Japanese tissue will vary depending on how much of the signature page is damaged.

Lay the center folio of the signature on a piece of non-stick material with center facing up.
Lay the pasted repair tissue down the center of the folio.
Lay a strip of wax paper along the fold.
Carefully close the page.
Place the folded page between blotters. Put under weight to dry.

If the other folios in the signature do not need repair, place them in the correct position around the center folio then re-attach the signature to the text block following the instructions in a separate post.
If all or some of the other folios need repair, continue with the instructions in the next posts.

Repairing Signatures

All paper tears should be mended before re-attaching a signature to the text block. Various techniques for repairing damaged paper are discussed in earlier posts within the Book Repair Basics category.

Examine the sewing holes on the fold of each folio. If the sewing holes are enlarged or the paper between the holes is damaged, the fold should be repaired before the folio is re-attached to the text block. If the damage is limited to one or two sewing holes or to only part of the fold, repairing that portion of the fold is sufficient.
It is not always necessary to repair each folio of a signature. The center and outside folios often sustain the most damage. Repairing only those two folios is faster and decreases the thickness of repair tissue in the repaired signature.
When most or all of the folios in a signature are badly damaged, each folio should be repaired.
Repair the folds of the folios in the folded position. Paper repaired flat then folded tends to have a very sharp crease while the original signature folds tend to be rounded. Repairing the folios in the folded position helps retain the proper shape and placement of the fold.

Damaged Folios and Signatures

Over the next few posts, I will cover a variety of techniques for repairing or re-attaching damaged, separated leaves, folios and signatures.

Leaves – one single 2 sided sheet or page

Folios – a single folded sheet comprised of 2 leaves

Signatures – gatherings of usually 4 folios

All of these can separate from the text block. Each can be repaired in several ways. Read through each of the options and select the one that will work best for your specific book.

Recasing a Hardcover Book – Method 2

METHOD 2:

Original Pastedown Lifted Off Board or Endpaper Replaced
Double check to see that the text block is correctly positioned in the case. The text block and cover need to be right side up to one another. The text block should be positioned correctly at the edge of the case.

Slip a large piece of wax paper into the fold of the endpaper to act as a moisture barrier. The wax paper should be larger than the endpaper.
Cover the wax paper with a sheet of waste paper. The waste sheet should also be larger than the endpaper.
Use a large brush to apply glue to the endpaper under the loose edge of crash.
Lay the crash onto the endpaper and work it in place with a folder. Be especially careful to work the crash into the text block shoulder.
Apply glue to the rest of the endpaper in a stat-burst pattern.

As the glue moistens the endpaper it may begin to curl. Reverse the curl by
gently bending the paper in the opposite direction of the curl until it relaxes.
The glue will not begin to dry for several minutes so there is time to work
with the endpaper.

Remove the waste paper, keeping the wax paper in place.
When the endpaper is glued and flat, carefully lower the cover. Press down on the cover or rub lightly with a folder.
Open the cover slightly and check the pastedown. Do not fully open the cover unless absolutely necessary.
If the pastedown is in the wrong position, quickly lift it up and reposition it, then lay the cover back down.
If there are wrinkles or air bubbles in the pastedown, support the cover on the work table and use the side of your palm to smooth out the wrinkles. Work from the center to the edges of the pastedown in a starburst pattern.
Work the case cloth into the joint with the long end of a folder, insert rods and press the book under weight.
Let the endpaper dry for at least one half hour; then repeat for the opposite cover.
Dry the repaired book overnight. The book must dry under weight or the boards will warp and the endpapers will wrinkle.